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Wednesday, March 21, 2007

The Garuga Road IV: animal magic










Aren't
animals
beautiful??!!
It's about time I said something about wildlife here. A Gerald Durrell in Uganda sort of thing, but instead of the ‘rose-coloured villa’ we will have to talk about the ‘Lwase compound’.

Starting with our compound then. The first amazing sight that I encountered was a giant snail. In fact now I know that there are quite a few living alongside us, all with quite distinct shells with differing patterns and whirls. From the photo you should get a feel as to just how big they are! It wasn’t exactly a delightful experience to have one crawling across my hand; I think that even I washed afterwards.

The next thing was the range of birds that we are exposed to here. Being Uganda there are always Black Kites flying to and fro, hovering with their tails twitching ominously looking for carrion and rubbish below. Then there are the Marabou Storks (ugh), the most ugly and disgusting creatures around. Their faces especially are covered with faeces and filth (they live off rubbish) and they have a huge red crop that swings pendulously below their long thin heads and enormous beaks. They never land here but soar high above. They are so huge and strangely shaped, that they appear like ancient pterodactyls, blotting out the sun for a split second as they pass over.

But the main feathered visitors each day are the Sacred Ibis’s. Their cry is so raucous and ear splitting that it is quite obscene. For such a ‘sacred’ bird one wonders how they got this title from the Egyptians. Maybe it was an in-joke? They land on our lawns and start picking away at worms and ants, their gloss green-black feathers glinting like car windscreens in the car parks.

Another screecher is the hornbill .. and yes …… and the toraco … oh and the fish eagle (worst of all although majestic sounding in some strange way). In fact for goodness sake nearly every large bird seems to make a din here! The Fish eagle is my favourite bird. Its white head and neck and its size make it immediately obvious and it sits haughtily on the highest perch possible, swinging its head around on elastic in its search for fish.

My second favourite has to be the Pied Kingfisher. Its is a small black and white kingfisher that chatters and chirps away at 13 to the dozen and speeds across water looking for minnows. It will suddenly change course like a Harrier Jump-jet in mid flight and rise to a perfect hover only to drop like a stone from about 30-50’. It exists in large numbers and it is great to have a kingfisher that isn’t rare and hard to find.

I will save writing about the Weaver Bird for another blog.
Truly amazing!

The most beautiful birds that are regularly seen here are the firefinches and sunbirds. Their feathers of the latter are iridescent and catch the sun; in addition they have patches of gloriously mixed colours from an artist’s palette and a long, thin and rapier-like curved beak that gives them the appearance of Dumas’ medieval musketeers. In fact many birds here, including common starlings and crows have amazingly iridescent plumage.

Finally, in this brief roundup, are the egrets that glide up from the Lake and perch in the trees in the early morning. Having picked ticks off the local animal population and waded in the waters, they seem to indulge in snooping outside bedroom windows from the taller trees. I think they are really rather dirty old men in pure white clothing!

Insects next. Ants are everywhere. Little, big, long, bulbous, but all aggressive, nasty and hard working: “Go to the ant, thou sluggard, and consider her ways”, says Solomon, and if you do you will be amazed at their activity (and their bite, but read on …). Between many of the pavers in our yard are 2” high pyramidal mounds of sand. Every single grain of these has been individually lifted out by an ant to crate an underground metropolis. I kick them down each day only to find them reappear the next day. What phenomenal energy and activity! On our walks we come across solid lines of aggressive soldier ants. Don’t let them for a minute got onto you! They are lethal! But even the very tiny, tiny little ants have a deadly bite. One of the team found a large number had crawled up his trousers and drastic measures failed to deal with them. I can see you cross your legs!

Not just ants. At night the walls become lined and black with them of all shapes and sizes. Because we are near the Lake there are masses of lakeflies – midges and gnat-like things - that are so thick in some places that you can’t help but breathe them into your lungs and need to breathe through a cloth filter. Mossies of course. In fact there aren’t many here but believe me they (the female ones only) are causing more grief in Africa than HIV/AIDS. Malaria seems to be a general feature of most Ugandans’ lives. Then there are huge cockroaches that crunch underfoot at night as you peer into the fridge looking for a binge …. Then caddis flies or something that looks a cross between them and mayflies. Large translucent wings and a curved body with a long abdomen ending in a twin set of spikes.

On our trees and walls are various weird-looking pupas of I don’t know but probably moths. They look like something from ‘Aliens’ – masses of cream threads woven into a tight shell with a strange protuberance at one end. “What is that?” you wonder. Which reminds me of the butterflies, which are spectacular. Ther are few boring looking ones here. This is Africa! Even the cabbage-whitey looking thing is huge with swallow tails.

Snakes. Need to mention those or people will think I am avoiding the truth. I was told that I was unlikely to see any, and in fact that is proving to be true. Everyone else is seeing them!! We have had one in the compound outside the door on the pavers, which was cut up into pieces so fast and thrown away that I never saw it, but probably was a Black Mamba – and deadly. Two on site, one with a bright yellow head (anyone know which that one is?!). But I feel that it is fair to say that they are scared of us generally and not that easy to find. Hallelujah!

Animals. Ugandans seem to take great joy in killing most living things: sorry, I am no racist, but my experience to date. We regularly see puppies and cats being burnt, kicked around like footballs, drowned, thrown in front of cars. There aren’t many really wild things left except a sort of squirrel and mongooses (or is it mongeese?). Microsoft spellcheck suggest the former! Of course in one or two strictly guarded places like Murchison Falls National Park there are wild animals and Sandy and I were privileged to be able to go there for a day or so. Crocodiles and hippos abound, along with some elephants and giraffes and loads of antelope and water buck. The baboons look comical but are in fact quite dangerous in groups. I liked a black turtle that was lying around in the midst of the savanna there, although I was assured by the ranger that it was a turtle and not a tortoise! My favourite is the crocodile. I don’t mean that I like them socially; I tend to leave a good distance between them and myself, but by golly they are huge and terrifying. They lie with their heads held aloft and their mouths open in a sort of crazy grin, draped across each other and pretending that they really can’t be bothered with food today, thank you. Then in a split second they are gone - shot off into the water like a bullet from a gun. A killer machine par excellence.












While talking about reptiles I have to croon over the lizards. Such charming and splendid fellows, all kitted out in the latest suit guaranteed to get the girls in a tizz. I seem to see them everywhere and spend considerable time feeling very jealous. They look you in the eye and give a lazy sort of blink, which seems to say, "Yeah? Wot you fink of this then, sah?!"

There’s much I have left out, but I will need more material later. Enjoy the pics!! Come to Uganda an discover it all for yourself!























The Garuga Road III

Time has raced on .... Life has been busy for me on the Cherish Uganda team. Here's an update on activity.

We now have a reasonable price for the typical house from our builder, Pearlmark Construction (Buster Simensen). My design is being very well received and is causing some interest here because of some ‘lateral-thinking’ solutions which potentially save time, maintenance and cost, and the innovative elements such as a spine wall to avoid the need for costly trusses, water-harvesting to provide all the water requirements of the house, sand filters to provide potable water, photovoltaic electricity, solar hot water, and of course the dear old composting (desiccating) toilets!

The planning application goes in within the next week, as well as the Environmental Impact Assessment for the development of the whole site. We have a detailed survey of 755 shrubs and trees on site, and the soil survey is completed. The ‘submitting architects’ tell us that we may get planning within 1-3 weeks! This seems absurd as even the UK takes about 12-16 weeks, but may be true, since planning meetings are fortnightly. So we may be starting on site within the next 3-4 weeks.

The soil on one section of our site right next to the first phase houses appears suitable to make bricks (see photo of their burnt and unburnt bricks) and so we are planning to construct our houses from our home-made bricks and use the hole formed in the ground as an irrigation tank for the farming.

I met the LC3 (local chairman at the highest level of the ‘Sub-District’) and he is very supportive and excited about our project, both because of the potentially significant number of local jobs created in the final full project (up to 100) as well as the proposed school. There are no schools serving our immediate area. It turns out to be a very deprived area, despite the vice-president and the president’s brother living down our road. HIV infection rates in the two villages at the end of the track may well be as high as 90%.

To make our scheme clear, the planning application envisages 200 HIV+ orphans living on site with 25 mothers, in 25 houses. Plus staff like us, and Ugandan nationals in key positions, in other accommodation. A school for our children plus, say, 100 local children. A guesthouse overlooking the Lake to take up to 75 guests if necessary (depending on funds) to cross-subsidize the project. This is likely to be built and run by a separate organisation in partnership with us. Plus farm buildings (piggeries etc) and a centre for vocational training and demonstration events/conferences into sustainable farming, HIV care etc. It is a challenging and dramatic blend of elements that will make it unique in Uganda. For you and others like you who will have been a part of making it happen I believe that you will one day be overwhelmed at the ripples that will spread out from this site across Uganda and Africa.

Agriculture
Kulika Trust, our agricultural NGO advisors, is now fully on board in the form of Harriet Ndagire, their most experienced project manager. She lives at the Entebbe Road end of our track and owns a small farm off our track. She ran the poultry and swine sections at the National Poultry and Swine Livestock research station in Entebbe, and is very experienced in training farmers all over Uganda in sustainable organic farming. We spend one day/week together, planning the farm and activities. We are currently finalising the layout of the farm, tidying up the recruitment pack for farm workers, and selecting the best variety of pig to breed on site. Pigs are relatively easy to keep, fetch a good price at market, and are efficient ‘manurers’. They live off slops and waste organic matter from the homes with small feed supplements. The breed I am interested in is ‘Cambrough – see photo of 2m long boar! - 'big boy' ho ho). We intend to plough and sow one section with a fodder crop (Napier Grass) and a leguminous ground-cover mix very soon and to start manuring the land to bring it up to full production, as it is seriously depleted of nutrients though poorly managed farming. Our intention is to make the land productive and earning money to pay for the project as soon as possible.

The fencing off of the site is almost complete but with one section in dispute. We are trying to resolve this argument about whether a farmer received payment for land that we were sold in good faith, as amicably as possible; please pray for us.

Children
Rachel Parsons, with help from others on the team, has done a superb job networking with all sorts of NGO’s and the main organisations involved in HIV/AIDS care, and working orphan and neglected children. We are already known about as far as Kenya and Tanzania in the HIV/AIDS world for our proposed project plan and our networking to date. Clearly we now need to ‘deliver’, but the in-country support for us and the anticipation of what we are doing is very encouraging. As we thought, targeted care of orphans with AIDS is almost unknown and we are breaking new ground in the integration of ART (ant-retro-viral therapy), medical support and the other elements of the project.

Ann White, our education manager, works one day/week at a poor central Kampala primary school getting a strong feel for the curriculum requirements etc and she is already training the teachers there as she is a specialist in remedial and ‘catch-up’ teaching.

The container from the UK arrived and cleared customs OK and is now sitting on a foundation on site for use as a secure store (see top photo). Its contents are in two shop/house units that we are renting opposite the site entrance, shared by our security guard and his family (Paul and Juliet Okoff and daughter Olivia) and our relief guard, Mark (see middle photo – Paul (eating sugarcane) is on extreme left; bottom photo is of local people watching container arrive – units are in background an Mark is in blue in the centre. Contents included 10 desktop computers, masses of educational materials and books, children’s clothing, toys and baby equipment, bicycles and so on. We are incredibly grateful for the generosity of many.


Cherish Uganda: organisational matters
You may recall that we received approval of our Ugandan NGO status 6 weeks after submission, which was across Christmas and New Year! This is almost unheard of in Uganda. We await the certificate of registration which then enables us to have work visas and all sorts of other things like bank accounts here.

The team spent two days brainstorming. We have been working hard on team life and communications as living and working virtually on top of each other in a compound needs special grace, especially when there are such a mixture of people thrown together and uneven areas of work intensity in the period before we take on children. Fin and Lucy Woods and their three young children joined us from Dulwich two weeks ago and the team in the compound now consists of 8 adults, two older teenage children, and three under 6’s, plus our security guard, Mark – 14 in all.

Our logo is now agreed and is shown here; our mission statement is:

“Cherishing children with HIV/AIDS. Embracing with them a future of promise”.

We are still struggling to get a website that does credit to the vision and impact for what we are trying to communicate. It was briefly on line but it has been removed until we are entirely happy, and please pray that we get this sorted very soon.

The Waldron family
Sandy and I are both well. We have had no illnesses since coming here, despite many warnings about water quality and mosquitoes etc. We sleep well. Climate is wonderful. Sandy’s asthma was fine until the dry season came in January and is now much more problematic, albeit only equal or possibly slightly worse than in the UK. Her birthday is on Thursday (15th).

Sandy is finding working on her books and texts quite manageable, now that we have her desk top computer and a spare sent out from the UK by Simon Kreitem (wonderful photographerman) all on a wireless dial up system. It is slow but racy compared to the ‘mobile phone dial up system’ which caused apoplexy! She is on the last edit of the amazing story of Rwandan Frida Gashumba who ‘came back to life’ 13 hours after being killed along with the16 others of her family in the genocide and who were all thrown in a mass grave. She went on to forgive the people who killed her family and is now married to a pastor of a large church in capital Kigali. She came to stay with us a few weeks ago and it was a privilege to spend time with her. Sandy has ‘ghost-written’ the book from interviews and tapes for Sovereign World Trust.

It has been hard to find ways of relaxing. We are struggling to make friends since we are so tied up on the compound and dependent on fitting in with the team. Also we chose not to go to an expatriate church, and Ugandans find it intimidating to befriend Mzungus (whites). Sandy is in need of finding a way to ‘get a life’. I finally decided to join the Victoria Nyanza Sailing Club (fees are ‘affordable’) an entered the Ugandan National Laser championships in a hired, battered boat against 38 other boats (see photo) from Uganda, Kenya, Tanzania and the UK. I hadn’t sailed a Laser for 23 years! I came 24th on handicap, after 7 races in two days – over 7 hours of sailing in strong winds! I was totally exhausted but much happier with life.

We keep in touch with our friends and family through Skype (please do all get online; it is free PC to PC and 1.2p/minute to a UK land line). Simon is just back from Georgia (ex-Russia) where he has been making two more short films for BP. He and Kamilla are expecting the baby in May and all is well. Sandy and I are getting in practice in babysitting and reading stories in bed to the children now on site here. Becci and Mark buy their first ‘flat’ and move in within the next week or so. Becci now has her first commissioned book + cover (“Religious fundamentalism and social identity”). Hannah is just finishing at Uni. She directed and produced (and got paid for) the animation DVD that backs the new single by ‘Goodshoes’ (“I never meant to hurt you”) which was no1 with NME early March and also voted no1 song video by some poll, and so is a real star!! Sandy’s mother, Luigia, is perhaps just a fraction less unhappy in her nursing home; Stephen’s mother, Jo, has fallen and is again really struggling with mobility.

Life in Uganda, and a way you may be able to help …
Almost weekly we encounter a heart-rending story at first hand of the appalling brutality of life for women and children here. Then there are levels of sadness between. We may have told you that we have taken on a girl called C as our house-maid. She was raped and beaten up by her uncle (and friends) 5 months ago and is now pregnant by him. When his wife, her aunt, heard she walked into the middle of the road and committed suicide. Her mother threw C out of the home when she was born and she had been shuffled between relatives ever since. Her sister died of AIDS a few months ago and left a 6 year old daughter whom C wants to adopt. Now with C refusing to have an abortion, her relatives refuse to let her have the girl but they despise the child and treat her very badly. Recently the girl lost a pencil from school and as a result was locked in the pigsty and had to watch her meals being eaten by the pigs. C lives in a single-roomed hovel (only word for it) and has debts of 75,000UgSh (£32-ish) because she worked for Ugandans for 10 months without being paid and then when she made a fuss was sacked (this is not unusual amongst the nouveau-riche Ugandans). Some friends of ours who heard about her are paying for her accommodation, her work for us and the nieces school fees, but with the relatives current position we are somewhat thwarted. The story is more gross and complicated than this but space does not permit.

One story that we would like to present to you, in case one of you may feel this is something you may wish to help with, is that of 'G'. G is 17 years old and a member of our church cell-group, which meets in a tiny bungalow/house in a very poor district near us (we are the only mzungus). She is in the last year at school (grade 6). Her father went bankrupt and her brother stepped in to pay school fees. Last November he lost his job and couldn’t pay fees. She is a hard worker and quite bright. She thus had a debt at her local school of £15 from last term and her registration fee for this final year (starting February) was £18. These we have paid. Her term fees are £29 as a day girl, and we have paid for this term as a ‘holding position’. However, her brother’s wife has left him due to his loss of income (!) and she is left having to manage the home and two young children and thus is struggling to do her school work. The school is just 1 km across the road but she really needs to be a boarder to cope and recover her position, as she has fallen behind in her studies. The fees for this are about £100/term. There are 3 terms left, so to pay the extra-over this term and two more terms would be about £280. Finally she needs to buy or get the 8 set books for A level which are: The Grapes of Wrath (Steinbeck I think); King Lear (Shakespeare); Jane Eyre; A Man for All Seasons; I will Marry When I Want (?); In the Castle of My Skin (?); An Enemy of the People; The Outsider (L’Etranger, Camus); we imagine that many of these books are in your libraries and you may be willing to send them out via the next person, which is 27th March. We don’t normally respond to requests) to pay kids’ school fees (which we get weekly, but since we are so linked to G we feel this is a special case. If anyone wants to help on either of these items for G do call or email us (snbwaldron@gmail.com).

Uganda and out
We are getting a better feel for this country now. It is beautiful and has a great climate. (We get out in the car and walking as often as we can to meet people and be exposed to life. This photo from my mobilephone is of a vegetable like a tiny tomato which is dried in the sun. It is then crushed releasing thousands of seeds, which produce a sort of leafy veg.) But economically it is seriously under-performing, partly because the politics seem to be slowly going off the rails. President Museveni has been a good president for so long but he seems to feel his power slipping away and is resorting to worrying tactics. Firstly money and land is being used to bribe political leaders and wealth creators to gain support in the fight to control the north, trying to get the tribes loyal to Kone and the Lord’s Resistance Army (LRA) on the government's side. It is a complex situation since the Sudanese and Congo (DRC) borders are extremely sensitive as you will know if you read the international news. In doing this he appears to have abandoned the Karamojan people who have been fiercely loyal to him, but are pretty universally hated and the poorest tribe in Uganda; there is an alleged but unreported ethnic cleansing going on by the troops amongst them; history teaches that you can only get away with this so long. Secondly, he is ignoring the rule of law to arrest and keep in detention his major political opponents; this is being done so blatantly that the common person is aware that the law and human rights are being ignored, leading to a general sense of ‘so, anything goes’. Thirdly, huge unchecked ‘skimming’ of contracts and budgets is going on by the governing levels and elite; again so blatantly that the papers report it quite factually but without it having any impact. So everyone feels that this is quite OK.

For all these reasons I see little hope for the country in the near future and that without a miracle there will be increasing unrest and tension. People are seeing the wealth gap increase and this leads to bad feeling. The Church is largely ineffectual because it focuses on tithingm music and preaching, and fights shy of political issues. The Church also has corruption within its ranks. Many are doing amazing work but in the face of regular stories of misappropriation of funds and so on. Westerner support of churches is generally naïve and insensitive to the political and social consequences of their actions and this coupled with a dependency attitude on the West among many churches leads to unsustainable projects and a stifling of initiative and taking ownership of an indigenous vision for the nation. Our church, KPC, is unusual in that it tackles political issues fairly head-on and also has a cutting-edge orphan care/education movement called Wototo (see their web-site) which is internationally known.

Well, end of this episode – with a picture of our site’s lake frontage. I hope the blog’s length doesn’t put you off (you can always skim read it) and that there is plenty for all? We are so grateful to all who are with us in spirit, letter, emails and finances!! Thank you all!