Uganda seen from afar

‘Does Uganda still exist?’ my mind tussles with this thought as I relax and unwind in a far-flung world, hidden deep in a mountain valley in the Italian Friuli Mountains. It seems impossible that such differing worlds can coexist in such a small and diminishing planet. I am in the centre of civilisation. At least, I mean civilisation from which my world was spawned. Civilisation from which nearly everything that I value and take for granted has sprung. Values that support and uphold me and make me glad to be alive. This is the backdrop to words, lines, duets, concertos, arias, operas, plays, poems and symphonies that resonate through my being.

Am I wanting the same for Uganda? No – something unique and different! But can I identify and accept the values and beauty that make Uganda what it is and what it could be? Or does it need to go through the world wars and plagues that shaped Europe into what it is today to be able to compete on this stage? Can we get something so wonderful for nothing? What is the essential-ness of Uganda that I need to extol and laud? What qualities and elements do I need to recognise within the chaos and corruption?

Fear and loathing in Uganda - methinks. I am finding it hard to work my way through the utter waste of lives and effort – of human potential represented by the rhythm and way of Ugandan life – even if this is less than half the truth.

Firstly there is the corruption. No! I am not going to give in to the ‘politically correct’ mist that invades my brain and seeks to cloud every true judgement. Of course there are reasons for corruption, and endless extenuating circumstances, but the fact is, no matter how you dress it up, that until corruption is significantly reduced there is no hope for Uganda. You just can’t make a silk purse out of a sow’s ear.

Then there is tribalism. Every Ugandan I meet dreads the knock on his door or the ring on his mobile of the distant relative or clansman asking for yet another favour. On the one hand it is wonderful to have an extended family that means you are never in want for a home or a bed. But the country is littered and crawling with half-built structures representing the people’s attempts to tie up their money away from the hands of others. It is an abomination and scourge; a promotion or benefit is lost immediately by the relatives who will camp nearby to eat up the crumbs that fall from the table. A greater educational qualification is a signal to people from distant shores to relocate nearer their family member. A deep sigh rumbles from the belly of every successful but caring wife that I meet in Uganda; “What can you do?” she sighs. “They are our flesh and blood”.

At a broader level jobs are always given to one’s family or tribe, never outside the fold. The contempt and hostility from one’s family if one failed to do so would be too much to bear. There is no concept of ‘the best for the job’. Indeed suspicion is so great between people that the worst are often selected, who will never ever threaten the benefactor’s position, but who, at the same time, will never ever advance his cause. This behaviour is not limited to ‘evil’ or ‘ignorant’ people, but even the very best of men and women cannot see any other way to act, unless they have experienced life in the West.

So what does Uganda offer the world? Gentle, hospitable, softly spoken people who work hard; graciousness; a country of great agricultural potential with a superb climate in most of the central and southern areas; significant untapped mineral wealth; beautiful women!; hydro-electric power; amazing bird-life; Tilapia; biggest crocodiles in world; masses of hippos, crocs, and elephant; much much more ……